Everest Base Camp Trek (Nov 2016)

SHUTTLE SERVICE

A shuttle bus takes would-be trekkers and their guides, typically in groups of around 10, to board their flight from Kathmandu's Tribhuvan domestic airport.

EXPERIENCE

It is said that only the most experienced pilots fly the Kathmandu-Lukla route, owing to the latter's notorious reputation for being one of the most dangerous -- if not the most dangerous -- airports in the world.

COCKPIT VIEW

In the later phase of the 35-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, the snow-capped giants of the Himalayas, at least 6,000m high, are the only thing you will see from the cockpit, as if the plane is flying straight towards them.

KONGDE RI

The town of Lukla, at an altitude of 2,800m, sits under the shadow of Kongde Ri ("Kwangde" as locals refer to), a 6,180-meter peak.

NO MARGIN

A plane taxis on a short 527m strip of tarmac known as the Tenzing-Hillary airport (Lukla airport), named in honor of Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. On one end is a drop that goes to who-knows-how-deep. On the other is a wall and a sharp turn.

LUKLA BUSTLING

The influx of tourists keeps the small town of Lukla with a flurry of activities. The major streets are lined with lodging, coffee shops, internet cafes, restaurants, and stores selling all sorts of things -- from souvenirs to outdoor equipment to groceries.

PASANG LHAMU

Near the first trekker chekpoint is a gate built in memory of Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, who, in April 1993, became the first Nepali woman to conquer Everest. Tragedy struck on their descent and she did not make it back.

THE GRIND

A young boy armed with a hand saw cuts some branches of a tree by the side of a trail, his father is directing him from the ground.

ONE TOO MANI

Mani walls/stones, rocks or slabs of stone inscribed with Buddhist mantras, intersperse along the trails and by the side of rivers, a testament to the religion's influence in the region.

CHILDREN SEE, CHILDREN DO

Porters typically use an extra strap with a headband to support them in hauling heavy loads over long periods. A regular sight for her, a little girl tries to imitate the same practice. This practice makes me really curious as to whether or not it helps prevent issues in the long term. I think the immense amount of pressure compresses one's spine.

ALMOST THERE

A trekker musters all his strength to climb the last few steps towards what would become his temporary respite -- his accommodation for the day. Behind him a porter takes it easy and appears to be occupied with something else.

GLUED

Technology has definitely found its way into the households of Phakding (2,610m), a small village between Lukla and Namche Bazaar, as evidenced by this young fellow whose eyes and fingers are glued to the phone's screen in the early morning.

HESITANT

A young boy gives a hesitant face as we snap a picture of him. Beside him is a basket loaded with supplies left by a porter who decided to take a rest.

MORNING ROUTINE

A little girl gets some early morning sunshine while she tidies her hair just outside her home as part of her morning routine.

MILKY WAY

Dudh Koshi, literally "milk river", so named due to its characteristic white water, flows from the Everest massif and snakes through the villages in the lower elevations.

STAPLE

Firewood plays an important piece in the lives of the locals in these villages, and as such it is imperative that they keep a stock dry and ready for use.

DYNAMIC DUO

Cousins Kamal (L) and Nikhil (R), my porter and guide, respectively. Their faces peppered with marks from the elements. Forged by adversity, they continue to dream for better days. Kamal, 21 and strong as an ox, temporarily stopped school to earn money and save up for his education. He aims to pursue Economics in university. Nikhil, 31 and with a can-do attitude, brings both mountain experience and energy to his clients. During treks, he takes every opportunity to talk to his five year old daughter on the phone. Amazing guys!

OBLIVIOUS

A young girl plays on a section of the trail near her home, oblivious to the hoards of tourists, porters, and locals passing. Well, if you've got a lollipop on one hand and a balloon on the other, that's all that matters.

NO SHOES? NO PROBLEM.

A porter climbs one of the stairs on the way to the town of Namche Bazaar (3,440m). The lack of shoes to protect his feet did not hinder him from taking on the job, wearing only a run-down pair of slippers on the trail.

BREAKING BACK

Porters resting by the side of the trail is a usual sight on the trek, sometimes in groups and sometimes alone. Strong as these guys may be, they still need rests from their back-breaking task.

HIGH FIVER

The seemingly cold stare from this little girl, Serala, betrays her actual personality. She was the friendliest kid I met, offering high fives to hikers -- yours truly included -- passing by her Namche Bazaar abode, as if to energize our weary souls. Thank you, Serala.

ZERO WASTE

Locals have learned to make good use of everything. The waste from their domesticated animals (primarily donkey and yak-ox crossbreed) are dried and used as fuel for the fire-based heating system in their houses.

"I'M FEEDING MY FRIEND"

The people in these villages are exposed to animals very early in their childhood, and as such they've learned to treat them as friends and play with them. It's common to see leash-free horses and oxen dwelling with people.

SOLAR-POWERED

So you think your dryer racks up your bills? Take cue from these villagers who have learned to harness sustainable energy to dry clothes (and other items) using sheets of metal exposed to the sun. As an added benefit, the metal sheets provide shelter to the people under them. Caveat: Dryer function doesn't work during rain.

JOLLYWALKING

A local flashes an infectious smile as he saunters down a flight of steps that is one of the busier "streets" in Namche Bazaar.

MULE TRAIN

A crossbred of a yak and an ox, referred to locals as dzopkyo, climbs a major pathway in Namche Bazaar. Trailing is a convoy of mules carrying supplies of liquefied petroleum gas while bipedals give way.

TIME OFF

A local takes some time off from her daily chores to speak to her family.

A BAZAAR EXPERIENCE

Namche Bazaar is quite a unique experience. While a village that serves as a center of Sherpa culture, traces of outside influence are ubiquitous. It is a place where the old ways cross with the new. With alleyways lined with shops selling practically everything, you can try something genuinely local or stick to what you are familiar with.

IN ACTION

The kitchen crew at Holiday Namche (www.holidaynamche.com) kicks into high gear to attend to the sustenance needs of trekkers who are spending the night in the lodge. The gentleman in pink is Ang Norbu Sherpa, a guide for 20 years who decided to focus on the lodging business in 2004. The lady is his wife Nawang Kasang Sherpa who runs the business with him. Great couple and hosts. And cooks.

AFTER HOURS

When most of the guests have already hit the sack, the owners of Holiday Namche, along with their friends, some of whom are guiding for the guests, enjoy their time playing a game of cards. This particular game, which my faculties failed to grasp even after my efforts to observe meticulously, makes use of two decks. Well at least I figured that one out.

A FITTING TRIBUTE

Outside the Sherpa Museum in Namche Bazaar is a bigger-than-life statue, patterned after the pose in his historic photo, that serves as a fitting tribute to Nepali Tenzing Norgay. In May 1953, Tenzing and Edmund Hillary became the first people to summit the highest mountain on Earth, rising 8,848m above sea level. You guessed it right, that peak in the background.

TERRACED

The village of Namche Bazaar, built on terraces, with Kongde Ri in the background.

THAMSERKU

A group of hikers en route to the Everest View Hotel against the picturesque backdrop of Thamserku (6,608m).

AMA DABLAM

Ama Dablam (6,812m), which means "mother's necklace", soars proudly on the horizon. Its unmistakable shape has earned it the moniker "Matterhorn of the Himalayas", owing to its striking resemblance to the 4,478-meter peak between Switzerland and Italy. Or is Matterhorn the "Ama Dablam of the Alps"?

LANDING HIGH

A helicopter carrying supplies prepares to land at a helipad in Namche (3,440m).

GRAZING FIELDS

A yak grazes on the field along the trail to Everest View Hotel, with Thamserku (6,608m) showcasing its beautiful slopes from behind.

SOLITUDE

With mountains towering behind, local takes advantage of the solitude to watch a video on this phone.

POPULAR KID

Friends swarm a little boy in what appears to be an attempt to get their hands -- and taste buds -- on the appetizing treat he is holding.

PAINTING HOUSES

A trekker sits on a rock overlooking Namche Bazaar while she reproduces on her notebook in great detail the panoramic view before her eyes. She graciously showed me her work, which includes scenes from other places she's been to.

RGB

Primary colors red, green, and blue (RGB) dominate the palette used to paint the buildings in Namche Bazaar.

HIMALAYAN TAHR

As if to tease us, a female Himalayan Tahr (Hemitragus jemlahicus) sticks out her tongue after crossing the trail and moving to higher ground. The male accompanying her, sporting a fancier coat, remained on the other (lower) side waiting the human train to pass.

TRAIL "TAX"

On the way from Namche to Tengboche is a donation "outpost" aiming to raise funds for the maintenance and improvement of the trails to Everest.

TRAIL BLAZER

Just a few meters near the donation "outpost" are men laboring under the sun to maintain the trail.

SO YOUR JOB IS TOUGH?

A porter hauls wooden boards on his back on the way to Tengboche. The fact that you are viewing this is a reminder that no matter how hard your work may be, it doesn't compare to what some of the people in these places have to do to put food on the table.

THE GAP

A copter flies over Tengboche, building a gap between the mountains in short time, in what appears to be a medevac from Everest base camp.

MONK AND MOUNTAIN

A monk observes the changing conditions of the sky by the side of a stupa near the Tengboche monastery.

THE ROAD TO MANDALA

Creating a mandala, a religious symbol representing the universe, is a long and delicate process. Here, Buddhist monks in Tenboche monastery patiently apply powdered color to create the intricate details of the diagram.